So I’d been thinking of vegan offerings for a hassun or possibly even a sakizuke course. One of the things that came to mind was Iron Chef Morimoto’s Ingen no Goma Ae offering from his Mastering The Art Of Japanese Home Coooking (p. 226, 227). So instead of regular string beans, I thought “why not use haricots vert”? I also wanted to make this dish a lot easier to make. Iron Chef Morimoto notes the he grinds 3 T sesame seeds to powder (be careful not to turn it into paste). It occurred to me that in making the goma ae, there was going to be the addition of liquid elements of soy sauce and mirin which would effectively turn it into a paste. With that in mind, I turned to my packages of Japanese white sesame paste (I supposed tahini could work here as well, given Iron Chef Michiba’s adage: Ingredients do not recognize national boundaries). So my ingredient list would look like:
3 T toasted sesame seeds (ground to powder, here I would use 2 T shiro neri goma 1 T toasted white sesame seeds)
1 T soy sauce
1 T mirin1 t granulated sugar (I didn’t feel this was necessary since there was mirin already in the recipe)
For the sauce I needed to combine all the items. I chose to have the sesame seeds go in first and then the paste.
Then I could add the liquid ingredients.
Once the goma ae was finished, I could turn my attention to the green beans. For this microbatch, I
would need 1 c halved trimmed green string beans (here I would be using haricots vert; the original called
for 2 c in order to serve 4, so I would be essentially halving the recipe.
Now I just needed to blanch the beans in pot of water with about 1 T (kosher salt – I would use sea salt
here). Then shock the beans and pat dry.
I now had to transfter the beans to a mixing bowl with mixture of the 2 1/2 T sesame seed/paste, soy, mirin to coat.
Iron Chef Morimoto comments that the combination can be placed in an air tight container and stored stored up to a day in the refridgerator. But seeing how I was using it for dinner right away, I loaded it on the dinner plate as a side to the branzino shioyaki for dinner.
While I already understood how the branzino shioyaki would taste, on trying the haricots vert goma ae, it had that light sweet/salty (no doubt from the nutty sesame, sweet from the mirin and salt from the soy sauce) flavor that enhanced the vegetal flavors of that string bean. It also served as a nice flavor complement to the salt grilled branzino. According to my copy of “The Flavor Bible”, the goma ae should pair well with spinach and things like zucchini. This goma ae was a really nice seasoning that I could use to dress vegetables.