What is teppanyaki butter?

Previously, on tastingmenu.wordpress.com –

* https://tastingmenu.wordpress.com/2020/04/18/nobu-miso-pecan-compound-butter-for-matcha-waffles/
* https://tastingmenu.wordpress.com/2020/01/13/matcha-waffle-nobu-style/

…Beurre beurre, donnez-moi du beurre, toujours du beurre… – Fernand Point

After making the Nobu style matcha waffles and miso pecan butter, I started thinking about the applications of compound butters. One of the things I’d wondered about over the years were flavored butters as part of a dinner bread service or to finish entree courses such as grilled meats (e.g. Beurre Maître d’Hôtel ).  One such example was the use of butters in a teppanyaki course.  Some of the teppanyaki youtube videos from Japan indicated only the use of a light high smokepoint oil with slices of fresh garlic (also making “garlic chip garnishes) to flavor it when cooking entree portions for diners.  However,  in Benihana’s case, it (and perhaps other American teppanyaki establishments) was using flavored butters for their fried rice, shrimp, lobster, scallops and steak offerings. A webpage ( https://onthegas.org/food/benihana-garlic-butter) was suggesting the butter had the addition of soy, lemon juice and butter.  Another internet site further considered the addition of parsley.  For the Benihana of Tokyo@Toronto a youtube video [ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cKPMWSh–k ]

(time indices: 1:05 (fried rice), 6:41 (shrimp), 9:04 (scallop), 11:32 (lobster), 13:18 (mushrooms), 13:38 (steaks), 14:36 (skillet sauce) )

witnessed the usage of a green butter; and in fact you can actually hear the chef say that the butter was made with “garlic and some vegetable” at 9:20-9:25

So, a priori, the Benihana garlic butter seemed to be:
1/2 c (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 large garlic cloves chopped (Nobu Style – grate it!)
2 T finely chopped parsley
2 T lemon juice
1 t of soy sauce

By the way, the Washington Post reports ( https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/benihanas-be-the-chef-program-is-a-sizzling-good-time/2014/04/07/ef5d8a20-b91e-11e3-9a05-c739f29ccb08_story.html ) the usage of a European whipped butter/margarine base – unconfirmed rumors have it that it might be the Sunglow product.  After much reflection, it occurred to me that what this really was describing was the compound butter for escargots de bourgogne as can be described from Chef Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook (p. 119).  The recipe lists:

  • 8 oz unsalted butter (2 sticks of butter at room temperature)
  • 1/4 c minced chives
  • 2 T minced shallots
  • 4-5 garlic cloves peeled/finely minced
  • 1/2 c finely minced italian parsley
  • 2 t kosher salt
  • pinch of black pepper
  • 1 T fresh lemon juice
  • 1 T pernod

Nobu Now has a recipe for Baby Turban Shells with Escargot Butter Sauce (p. 44) that calls for

3 1/2 oz unsalted butter
1 large garlic clove chopped (Nobu Style – grate it!)
1 oz finely chopped parsley
1 t lemon juice
dash of salt
6 drops of soy sauce

Was it possible the benihana/teppanyaki/hibachi garlic butter was actually just an escargots de bourgogne compound butter that looked like the following compound butter –

4 oz unsalted butter (1 stick [ok, ok, a European whipped butter/margarine product!])
2 large garlic cloves grated
1/4 c minced italian parsley
pinch black pepper
3/4 t lemon juice
1 T soy sauce (1/2 t salt equivalent salinity)

Stay tuned…..

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