Nobu West Dashimaki/Tamagoyaki Unagi/White Truffle Egg Roll – Technical Notes

Previously, on tastingmenu.wordpress.com –

* https://tastingmenu.wordpress.com/2019/09/28/boiled-anago-sawara-nobu-style/
* https://tastingmenu.wordpress.com/2012/12/01/omakase-at-home-thanksgiving-style/

Last weekend, when I was trying to use some of the leftover sawara that I prepared like anago for a breakfast, I decided to repurpose it using the Freshwater Eel And White Truffle Egg ‘Roll’ recipe in Nobu West (p. 200-201).  Reading through the recipe, I thought I could make a microbatch recipe for one. The scaled recipe appeared to be:

2 extra large eggs
2 T cold/room temperature dashi
2 t + 1/4t sugar
1/2 t soy sauce
1/2 t salt
olive oil for frying

I had the leftover sawara and its braise, and so I decided to add

1 T mirin
1 T sake
1 T soy

to the braise and reduce it to a syrup, while I broke the leftover sawara into chunks and rewarmed it under my broiler.

But what about the truffle?  Unfortunately, I didn’t have any fresh white alba truffles. I was thinking of making do with a few judicious drops of white truffle oil mixed into a teaspoon of the reduction and then mixed it into the warmed pieces of sawara.

Unfortunately, I could not locate my tamagoyaki pan and had to use a western non-stick pan to make this dish.

So I would mix the egg mixture together (less) the olive oil and carefully pour a bit in a warmed non-stick pan that already had a little olive oil to make a egg ‘crepe’ and then to roll it up (away from me).  On the next to last (not last) layer, I added the sawara pieces and rolled it into the omlette.  I then did the last layer (egg crepe only) and rolled that to seal in the the sawara layer as best I could.

  1. In regards to the first technical note, Matsuhisa-sama warns to be careful with the heat that it should be low enough so that the egg mixture sets and cooks slowly.  But there was no guidance about what was considered “low enough”.   When I began preparing the dish, it turned out that the heat level I had to use was about 30% max power to get it set correctly and cook slowly.
  2. The second technical note that I observed that because of the braising flavor for the sawara, I made the correct guess to leave out the sugar.  It would turn out during the tasting that the warmed leftover sawara mixed with the reduction made the end result sweet enough (let alone having a strip of the reduction sauce decorating the plate beneath the tamagoyaki).  I imagine of one wasn’t using something like unagi/anago Japanese braised items, then the addition of the sugar would be appropriate without being overpowering.
  3.  The final technical note that I observed is that the addition of salt seemed to make the dish a little to salty.  Instead of the mix of 1/2 t salt, 1/2 t soy sauce, I thought may be 1 t usukuchi soy sauce would be a better seasoning.

I can’t wait to get my replacement tamagoyaki pan.

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