Previously, on tastingmenu.wordpress.com –
In looking for a new recipe to try I came across: (Black Pepper Crusted) King Salmon Tataki With Yuzu Arugula Sauce in World Of Nobu (p. 263). In reading the recipe and the commentary, it reminded me very much of Jody Adams’, Tuscan Style Steak which had arugula dressed with lemon and olive oil (where I had replaced the lemon with yuzu). But how to approach the sauce? In Nobu Now, Matsuhisa-sama has a recipe for Cilantro Sauce (pgs 61,62) that is listed as
4 t salted water
3 1/2 fluid oz (7T) rice vinegar
5 1/4 fluid oz (10 T + 1 t + 1/2 t) grapeseed oil
1 bunch (~2.8 oz) cilantro
and Matsuhisa-sama comments that you can replace the rice vinegar with citrus juice. For the salted water, I would dissolve 1/4 t of salt into 1 cup of water and use the 4 teaspoons from that mixture.
Using this information as guidance, I chose to view the Yuzu Arugula Sauce in World Of Nobu (p. 263) as:
4 t salted water
3 1/2 fluid oz (7T) yuzu juice
5 T + 3/4 t grapeseed oil
5 T + 3/4 t olive oil
1 bunch (~2.8 – 3 oz) arugula leaves
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Once I had measured out my ingredients I went about assembling the sauce. Since the amount of fresh arugula seemed a little
unwieldy, I pulled out my big processor to get it down to size and poured in the 1 T + 1 t of salted water and the 7 T of yuzu juice. I ran the pulser a few times to get the bulk of the sauce down to something manageable and then moved the results to the smaller
processor. Finally, I moved the mix to a container in order to add the oils and to store before dinner.
On tasting the finished sauce, I noticed that it seemed a little under seasoned. So I added 1/8t of salt at a time and discovered that
about ~1/4 teaspoon balanced the flavor (leaning towards the yuzu flavor).
So looking at this dish, I was wondering what other colorful cooked vegetable I could pair with these components. Looking through my ‘The Flavor Bible’, I noticed that bell peppers were a good match with all the other ingredients and chose to make a bed of garlic sauteed julienned yellow bell peppers atop the yuzu arugula sauce. At that point I could place the cooked salmon on top of the peppers. While I was preparing the simply grilled salmon (seasoned both sides with 3 3-fingered pinches of 4:1 salt/pepper mix), my wife volunteered to prepare the garlic sauteed of yellow bell peppers. The salmon went into the broiler for about 8 minutes. When everything was ready, I plated a pool of the yuzu arugula sauce and the mounded the cooked peppers and then the salmon.
In trying the dish, it was joy did see how well the yellow bell peppers and salmon matched each other and the bite of the citrus and arugula in the sauce. I think if there were any shortcomings, my wife and I both agreed that the dressing needed to reduce the amount of olive/grapeseed oil. The amount of oil seemed to interfere with the sharpness of the arugula. The next time I make this, I think the recipe would look like:
- 4 t salted water
- 3 1/2 fluid oz (7T) yuzu juice
- 2T + 2t + 1/4t grapeseed oil
- 2T + 2t + 1/4t olive oil
- 1 bunch (~2.8 – 3 oz) arugula leaves
- 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Thank you Chef Matsuyoshi and Matsuhisa-sama. I look forward to making this dish again, and perhaps with Snake River Farms Washugyu (think a different take on Chef Adams’ Tuscan Style Steak!).