Previously, on tastingmenu.wordpress.com –
My wife and I recently made another batch of Iron Chef Morimoto’s Chicken (Ramen) Noodle Soup for dinner the other night and were discussing the marinated eggs we nornally find in ramen restaurant offerings. The question then came up, could we make those eggs ourselves so that we could make a complete ramen offering with kakuni and ajitsuke tamago to go with the Iron Chef Morimoto’s Chicken Noodle Soup?
J Kenji Lopez-Alt provided a recipe for these eggs at https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2012/03/ajitsuke-tamago-japanese-marinated-soft-boiled-egg-recipe.html with the caveat that, “If you have broth leftover from chashu pork it can be used to marinate the eggs in place of the other ingredients.”
Well now, Iron Chef Morimoto had opened Momosan and featured his pork belly/kakuni that he uses in his ramen. So I thought I
would take the recipe for the kakuni braising liquid and use that for making the ajitsuke tamago. Based on my previous experience in
making that dish, a microbatch portion of that ‘marinade’ would look something like:
9 oz water
3/4 c sake
1/2 c sugar (Lakanto monkfruit sweetener?)
1/4 c soy sauce
1/2 t dark soy sauce
1/2 scallion chopped up (1/8 oz?)
3/4 t chili (gojugaru)
1 thin thumbnail size piece of ginger
I would bring that to a boil and then let chill to room temperature before adding my steam cooked soft boiled eggs. A first pass of
making these eggs did indeed yield the soft boiled eggs that I would eat for breakfast. Unfortunately, when peeling the eggs after they
were shocked in ice water to stop cooking revealed that the egg whites had only just set and the egg broke during the peeling
process. I imagine I would have to add just ONE more minute to make these eggs set enough so that I could peel them after shocking.
For those eggs that partially made it on the first go, I got them into the marinade and waited 24 hours. My wife and I both tasted the results and she suggested we lower the sweetness level by half.
So I retried steam cooking two eggs for 7 minutes and then letting it sit in ice cold water for 15 minutes – and what do you know? I
was able to peel the eggs without them having to break!
And so the soft boiled eggs went into the marinade to soak for a couple of days in the refridgerator……
On Monday night, we made another round of Morimoto Chicken Noodle/Ramen soup and pulled out the ramen eggs.
When I got them out of the marinade they appeared to have the right look and color to the outside of the egg. Now the big question would be, what would they look like inside? So I carefully cut each egg in half and as I pulled the blade away, I could see the blade had
that wet yolky schmear to it. Upon closer inspection, they ‘wet yolk’ had that jeweled jammy look to it. While it was not exactly the runny yolk I was expecting, I realized that the yolk had probably coagulated a little in the refridgerator those three days; and in fact the yolk still had a bit of creaminess to it as evidenced by the schmear on the white surface of on of the cut eggs.
Once the bowls of Morimoto ‘ramen’ were plated, I quickly got the split eggs to the top of each. I gingerly took a bite of my ramen egg
and took a closer look at my egg. A closer inspection indeed revealed a translucent jeweled jammy center with the outer edge just cooked. My wife was overjoyed with the results. So I guess I’ll be making more of this ramen on demand. I would like to take another crack had making these eggs again, steaming them for 6 minutes but soaking the eggs in a 15 minute ice bath before peeling them. I’m curious if that would result in a runny yolk.