Previously, on tastingmenu.wordpress.com –
So I was thinking about what to do with frozen duck breasts in my refridgerator. After seeing Tiny Urban Kitchen’s Per Se report (http://www.tinyurbankitchen.com/per-se/), I thought ‘perfect! I bet I could make something like that!’. So I decided I’d make roast duck breast with roasted baby carrots, fondant potatoes with Morimoto Shiitake Perigueux Sauce.
So I would need to combine:
1 minced shallot
sliced shiitake equivalent for 2 button mushrooms (3oz)
1/4 t black peppercorns
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 T balsamic vinegar
1 c (ruby) port
1 c madeira
1/2 c veal demi (==1 c veal stock)
1 t cornstarch/2t water slurry (only if necessary as a thickener)
1 T unsalted butter
1 T minced black truffle
salt/black pepper (1/8 t 4:1 salt/pepper mix)
So I began by taking a nice large shallot and mincing it,
portioning out the black peppercorns
as well as the balsamico, port and madeira.
I figured out that I wanted about ~1/3 of a package of pre-sliced shiitakes (having discovered that 2 generous button
mushrooms were about 3 oz)
I would have to sweat the shallots, shiitake, thyme, then add/reduce balsamic, port, madeira to a thick bubbling syrup(?). I would
then add my 1/2 c of veal demi and cook until just cooked through.
Iron Chef Morimoto advises if the sauce is not ‘thick enough’ to add the corn starch slurry and cook until ‘thickened’ (about a
minute) and then strain out the solids (extract as much sauce as possible). As it would turn out, I would NOT need to add the slurry.
When I strained the sauce, I got about a cup of liquid out of it. But then again, I knew I would be reheating it and finishing the sauce
with butter and truffles.
Set aside before serving, reheating it until simmering and whisk in the tablespoon each of minced truffle and butter and serve with
I understand perigueux is normally associated with dishes having foie gras elements in them such as tournedos rossini. I gather foie
is traditionally paired with something sweet, per se; but I was surprised at how sweet this sauce was. It made me think of a French
variation of a kabayaki sauce (or would that be the other way around?). Interestingly, Iron Chef Morimoto uses port in cooking conger eel in his Iron Chef sushi battle (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNX-yyKK80k , see time index: 15:44-16:19) – his version
of kabayaki conger eel used in a mini chirashi? In retrospect, we were also reminder of Chef Ron Siegel’s Sansho Reduction (and that sauce used madeira). We both definitely liked this dish and when I make this again, I think I’d use a tawny port that wasn’t quite as sweet as the ruby port that I’d purchased.