Perigueux Sauce, Morimoto-Style

Previously, on tastingmenu.wordpress.com –

* https://tastingmenu.wordpress.com/2012/11/05/ron-siegels-sanchosansho-pepper-reduction/
* https://tastingmenu.wordpress.com/2018/06/13/fondant-potatoes/

So I was thinking about what to do with frozen duck breasts in my refridgerator.  After seeing Tiny Urban Kitchen’s Per Se report (http://www.tinyurbankitchen.com/per-se/), I thought ‘perfect! I bet I could make something like that!’.   So I decided I’d make roast duck breast with roasted baby carrots, fondant potatoes with Morimoto Shiitake Perigueux Sauce.

So I would need to combine:

1 minced shallot
sliced shiitake equivalent for 2 button mushrooms (3oz)
1/4 t black peppercorns
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 T balsamic vinegar
1 c (ruby) port
1 c madeira
1/2 c veal demi (==1 c veal stock)
1 t cornstarch/2t water slurry (only if necessary as a thickener)
1 T unsalted butter
1 T minced black truffle
salt/black pepper (1/8 t 4:1 salt/pepper mix)

So I began by taking a nice large shallot and mincing it,

a generous 1 1/2 oz of shallot…

…for mincing into the sauce

portioning out the black peppercorns

some black peppercorns

as well as the balsamico, port and madeira.

a touch of aged balsamic vinegar

the sweet red wine elements

I figured out that I wanted about ~1/3 of a package of pre-sliced shiitakes (having discovered that 2 generous button

generous button mushrooms from the recipe….

mushrooms were about 3 oz)

…but I wanted to use this instead to increase the umami level in the sauce

I would have to sweat the shallots, shiitake, thyme, then add/reduce balsamic, port, madeira to a thick bubbling syrup(?).  I would

sweating down the shallots and thyme for about 2-3 minutes on 50% max heat

 

then adding and cooking down the vegetal elements including the mushrooms

 

Adding in the balsamic, madeira and port and

reducing the contents….

then add my 1/2 c of veal demi and cook until just cooked through.

thawed homemade French Laundry style demiglace (~1/2 c portion)

adding in the demiglace to the reduction

Iron Chef Morimoto advises if the sauce is not ‘thick enough’ to add the corn starch slurry and cook until ‘thickened’ (about a

reducing the entire content

minute) and then strain out the solids (extract as much sauce as possible).  As it would turn out, I would NOT need to add the slurry.

Straining out the perigueux sauce base

When I strained the sauce, I got about a cup of liquid out of it.  But then again, I knew I would be reheating it and finishing the sauce

Result of the sauce straining

with butter and truffles.

Set aside before serving, reheating it until simmering and whisk in the tablespoon each of minced truffle and butter and serve with

“…a knob of butter…”

…added to be whisked into the sauce

the dish

two nice black truffles

minced truffles ready for the last step of the reduced sauce JUST before serving

I understand perigueux is normally associated with dishes having foie gras elements in them such as tournedos rossini. I gather foie

Addition of the black truffles and 1/8 t of 4:1 salt/pepper seasoning

is traditionally paired with something sweet, per se; but I was surprised at how sweet this sauce was.  It made me think of a French

1/2 c of Morimoto’s Perigueux Sauce

variation of a kabayaki sauce (or would that be the other way around?).  Interestingly, Iron Chef Morimoto uses port in cooking conger eel in his Iron Chef sushi battle (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNX-yyKK80k  , see time index: 15:44-16:19) – his version

Pan Roasted Duck Breast, roasted carrots, Fondant Potatos, Morimoto Sauce Perigueux

of kabayaki conger eel used in a mini chirashi?  In retrospect, we were also reminder of Chef Ron Siegel’s Sansho Reduction (and that sauce used madeira).  We both definitely liked this dish and when I make this again, I think I’d use a tawny port that wasn’t quite as sweet as the ruby port that I’d purchased.

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