As I was growing up, I remember having Dunkin Donuts Chocolate (Butter)Creme Filled Donuts. Well over the last couple of years, I hadn’t been able to find them. I resigned myself to the fact that they weren’t ever coming back. Dunkin’s had ‘officially’ discontinued them ( http://www.birdchick.com/blog/2007/02/dunkin-donuts-broke-my-heart?rq=donuts ) around 2007. Last holiday season, I *was* surprised to see them at the Broad Ave Leonia, NJ branch; but haven’t seen them since.
Recently, I was flipping through my copy of Nobu West and considered the Chocolate Satandagi (or variously spelled sata-andagi / andagi / etc) recipe (Nobu West, p. 214). Apparently andagi is a sweet fried dough item native to Okinawa. The thing about andagi is they seem a bit on the heavy side (though I’m sure they’re quite good). The Nobu recipe reminded me of Thomas Keller’s “Coffee And Donuts” concept. The online recipe for Nobu’s Chocolate Satandagi can be found here:
So for the ganache – I finely chopped up 5 oz of 70% chocolate (I don’t like chocolate that sweet). I figured out that the 2/3’s cup of heavy
cream was 1/2 c+2T+2t which I brought just to a boil. I poured the hot cream over the chocolate and gently mixed it with chopsticks until
it was completely blended. I let the mixture cool to room temperature and then put it into the refridgerator. As soon as the chocolate
mixture was cold, I got them out of the refridgerator and let them come to room temperature. At that point,they were firm enough to
handle and I used 2 ‘spherical’ 1/2 tablespoons to scoop and shape the chocolate into ball-like quenelles. DANG. The recipe for the ganache
made about 16 chocolate centers. Most pictures of this dish I’ve seen usually only features 2 or 3 per serving at Matsuhia’s retaurants. Those resulting chocolate centers I put into the freezer.
So for the donut batter, I realized it was important to setup the meringue first. The meringue was 3 egg whites + 2 T superfine sugar (I imagine the superfine requirement was to ensure the sugar dissolved quickly into the egg whites). Obviously 2 of the egg whites could would come from the 2 separated egg yolks. I really didn’t want to break another egg simply for egg white. According to:
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Eggs/EggEquivalent.htm – 1 egg white==2 tablespoons==1 oz.
The meringue would be folded into the baking powder-less batter to lighten the donut.
The batter started with a mix of 2 egg yolks (whose whites went into the meringue), 1 T + 1 t of the superfine sugar, and 1/2 c + 1/2 T of milk which was to be whisked together. Then little by little 1 cup of all purpose flour was to be whisked in.
I suddenly realized that the batter was going to be a pretty large amount, seeing how I wanted to make just 4 donuts between my wife and I. I made the decision to cut the batter amount by half:
For the batter – it was going to be 1 egg yolk, 2 teaspoons of super fine sugar, 1/4 cup+1/2 t+1/4 t of milk whisked together. 1/2 c of flour
would be whisked in together and then the meringue would be folded into the batter. For the meringue – it was going to be 1 egg white, 1 T
of egg white (from a commercial egg white container), and 1 tablespoon of superfine sugar that was whisked hard for about 5 minutes.
At that point, it was now a matter of skewing 4 frozen chocolate ganache pieces and coating in the batter.
I ended up pouring a whole bottle of rice oil into my tempura pot and got it up to 325 degrees, as specified in the recipe.
The first two tries, I didn’t get quite right. But finally I got 4 battered skewers into the hot oil and waited about 2 minutes, constantly
turning them gently.
So instead of almond ice cream and raspberry coulis, I thought I’d get to the point and present my sata-andagi with raspberry sorbet! I supposed I could have garnished with a mint leaf or two, but I wanted to dig in!
My wife’s not a real fan of chocolate, but she really liked this offering. There were concerns it was going to be far too sweet. As it would turn out, all the real sweetness came from the raspberry sorbet – so you could really taste the chocolate and the light cake-like donut shell. All in all, I thought making this at home was a hit. I plan on having the Matsuhisa-sama’s satandagi as dessert to close a holiday meal later this year. Now I could see using sweet red bean paste as a filling to really make it ‘Asian’. Or if I can figure out how to freeze spheres of jelly (as in PB&J jelly), I could have a jelly satandagi….. oh the possibilities…