Sometimes, I just want a doughnut: Nobu West’s Chocolate Satandagi

As I was growing up, I remember having Dunkin Donuts Chocolate  (Butter)Creme Filled Donuts. Well over the last couple of years, I hadn’t been able to find them. I resigned myself to the fact that they weren’t ever coming back.  Dunkin’s had ‘officially’ discontinued them ( http://www.birdchick.com/blog/2007/02/dunkin-donuts-broke-my-heart?rq=donuts ) around 2007.  Last holiday season, I *was* surprised to see them at the Broad Ave Leonia, NJ branch; but haven’t seen them since.

Recently, I was flipping through my copy of Nobu West and considered the Chocolate Satandagi (or variously spelled sata-andagi / andagi / etc) recipe (Nobu West, p. 214).  Apparently andagi is a sweet fried dough item native to Okinawa.  The thing about andagi is  they seem a bit on the heavy side (though I’m sure they’re quite good).   The Nobu recipe reminded me of Thomas Keller’s “Coffee And Donuts” concept. The online recipe for Nobu’s Chocolate Satandagi can be found here:

https://books.google.com/books?id=wPMvfj0W7isC&pg=PA214&lpg=PA214&dq=nobu+west+chocolate+satandagi&source=bl&ots=WjU5ljr0nT&sig=gaG8WkSwPEMY2taC8XPQ1F40KCA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwieyoOynuzMAhVFJx4KHf2qBykQ6AEIIjAB#v=onepage&q=nobu%20west%20chocolate%20satandagi&f=false

chocolate for the sata-andagi filling

chocolate for the sata-andagi filling

So for the ganache – I finely chopped up 5 oz of 70% chocolate (I don’t like chocolate that sweet). I figured out that the 2/3’s cup of heavy

Getting ready to shave 1 oz (1/2 bar) of the chocolate for the filling

Getting ready to shave 1 oz (1/2 bar) of the chocolate for the filling

cream was 1/2 c+2T+2t which I brought just to a boil.  I poured the hot cream over the chocolate and gently mixed it with chopsticks until

5 oz of shaved chocolate and 2/3 cup of heavy creame

5 oz of shaved chocolate and 2/3 cup of heavy creame

it was completely blended.  I let the mixture cool to room temperature and then put it into the refridgerator.  As soon as the chocolate

heavy cream just coming to a boil and ready to pour over the shaved chocolate

heavy cream just coming to a boil and ready to pour over the shaved chocolate

 

melted shaved chocolate blended with the heavy cream

melted shaved chocolate blended with the heavy cream

mixture was cold, I got them out of the refridgerator and let them come to room temperature. At that point,they were firm enough to

Forming the 1 tablespoon chocolate 'quenelle' centers with 2 1/2 tablespoons

Forming the 1 tablespoon chocolate ‘quenelle’ centers with 2 1/2 tablespoons

handle and I used 2 ‘spherical’ 1/2 tablespoons to scoop and shape the chocolate into ball-like quenelles. DANG.  The recipe for the ganache

Holy smokes - the recipe made 16 center!

Holy smokes – the recipe made 16 centers!

made about 16 chocolate centers.  Most pictures of this dish I’ve seen usually only features 2 or 3 per serving at Matsuhia’s retaurants. Those resulting chocolate centers I put into the freezer.

...and into the freezer they go to harden

…and into the freezer they go to harden

So for the donut batter, I realized it was important to setup the meringue first. The meringue was 3 egg whites +  2 T superfine sugar (I imagine the superfine requirement was to ensure the sugar dissolved quickly into the egg whites).  Obviously 2 of the egg whites could would come from the 2 separated egg yolks.  I really didn’t want to break another egg simply for egg white.  According to:

http://whatscookingamerica.net/Eggs/EggEquivalent.htm – 1 egg white==2 tablespoons==1 oz.

The meringue would be folded  into the baking powder-less batter to lighten the donut.

The batter started with a mix of 2 egg yolks (whose whites went into the meringue), 1 T + 1 t of the superfine sugar,  and 1/2 c + 1/2 T of milk which was to be whisked together.  Then little by little 1 cup of all purpose flour was to be whisked in.

I suddenly realized that the batter was going to be a pretty large amount, seeing how I wanted to make just  4 donuts between my wife and I.  I made the decision to cut the batter amount by half:

Setting up - bowl of sugar on left for batter, the one on the right for the meringue

Setting up – bowl of sugar on left for batter, the one on the right for the meringue

For the batter – it was going to be 1 egg yolk, 2 teaspoons of super fine sugar, 1/4 cup+1/2 t+1/4 t of milk whisked together. 1/2 c of flour

1/4 c of milk for the batter to be followed up with

1/4 c of milk for the batter to be followed up with 3/4 t more

1 egg yolk with the sugar and milk into the batter bowl on the left and the separated egg white into the meringue bowl on the right

1 egg yolk with the sugar and milk into the batter bowl on the left and the separated egg white into the meringue bowl on the right

would be whisked in together and then the meringue would be folded into the batter. For the meringue – it was going to be 1 egg white, 1 T

Adding 1 T of extra egg white to the meringue bowl

Adding 1 T of extra egg white to the meringue bowl

of egg white (from a commercial egg white container),  and 1 tablespoon of superfine sugar that was whisked hard for about 5 minutes.

Whisked merinque basically finished

Whisked meringue basically finished

Combining the batter ingredients, adding the flour a bit at a time

Combining the batter ingredients, adding the flour a bit at a time

in go the meringue to be folder into the heavy (tight) batter

in go the meringue to be folder into the heavy (tight) batter

The completed batter

The completed batter

At that point, it was now a matter of skewing 4 frozen chocolate ganache pieces and coating in the batter.

Coating the frozen ganache with the sata-adagi batter

Coating the frozen ganache with the sata-adagi batter

I ended up pouring a whole bottle of rice oil into my tempura pot and got it up to 325 degrees, as specified in the recipe.

Getting out my tempura pot and rice oil

Getting out my tempura pot and rice oil

The first two tries, I didn’t get quite right.  But finally I got 4 battered skewers into the hot oil and waited about 2 minutes, constantly

frying up the chocolate satandagi

frying up the chocolate satandagi

turning them gently.

Setting them aside to drain on a wire rack

Setting them aside to drain on a wire rack

So instead of almond ice cream and raspberry coulis, I thought I’d get to the point and present my sata-andagi with raspberry sorbet!  I supposed I could have garnished with a mint leaf or two, but I wanted to dig in!

Time to serve up dessert

Time to serve up dessert

My wife’s not a real fan of chocolate, but she really liked this offering.  There were concerns it was going to be far too sweet.  As it would turn out, all the real sweetness came from the raspberry sorbet – so you could really taste the chocolate and the light cake-like donut shell.  All in all, I thought making this at home was a hit.  I plan on having the Matsuhisa-sama’s satandagi as dessert to close a holiday meal later this year. Now  I could see using sweet red bean paste as a filling to really make it ‘Asian’.  Or if I can figure out how to freeze spheres of jelly (as in PB&J jelly), I could have a jelly satandagi….. oh the possibilities…

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