I do decent fried eggs/omlettes, but every now and then I want scrambled eggs for breakfast. Not the solid mass of stuff you get at hotel breakfast buffets, but the real soft, slighty wet creamy scramble that can be absorbed by some nice toast…
I’ve tried making it over the years with inconsistent results. So I started looking in my copy of “The Complete Robuchon” and found one recipe on p. 222 – scrambled eggs in a pan (aka les oeufs brouillés). And then there was the breakfast brunch episode on Hell’s Kitchen last Thursday. So I went to see how Chef Ramsay does it. There is an online recipe (http://gordonramsaysrecipes.com/03/11/) and video of Chef Ramsay making the eggs:
A comparison between Chef Ramsay’s and Chef Robuchon’s ingredients reveals:
6 large free-range eggs …………………..6 eggs
3Tbs ice-cold butter diced ………………1 tsp butter
1-2 tbsp crème fraîche…………………..1 tsp crème fraîche
Freshly ground sea salt and pepper…….salt/pepper
Few chives, snipped
2-3 chunky slices of rustic bread
The preparation is nearly the same; Chef Robuchon greases the interior of his skillet with the butter, Chef Ramsay incorporates the butter directly with the eggs and breaks it in the sauce pot. Chef Robuchon whisks his eggs before cooking them and seasons them directly, Chef Ramsay seasons the eggs at the very end.
It’s a known fact that Chef Ramsay worked for both Chef Robuchon and was mentored by Chef Guy Savoy (https://www.starchefs.com/cook/interview/interview-chef-guy-savoy-restaurant-guy-savoy-%E2%80%94-las-vegas-nv, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gordon_Ramsay). So I’m going to have to presume that Chef Ramsay’s scrambled eggs may have had its origins with Chef Savoy).
As usual, my wife dislikes cooked butter, so I substituted 3 tablespoons of grapeseed oil to Chef
Ramsay’s approach and began my attempt. Into a medium sauce pot, I added 6 eggs and 3 tablespoons of grapeseed oil and set it on the stove at 75% max heat.
So I broke up the eggs in the sauce pot with the grapeseed oil and began heating (and stirring the
mixture on the heat. And as per Chef Ramsay’s recipe, I didn’t let the mixture get too hot – I kept moving the pot off and back on the heat, constantly stirring all the while (Chef Ramsay comments in the video, treat it like a risotto: can’t stop stirring). As part of the stirring process, I constantly made sure to completely scrape the bottom and the sides as the mixture began
to set. The bulk of the cooking process took about 8 minutes of constantly moving the pot on and off the heat, all the while stirring. I pretty much knew I was nearly done when I could push the mass of scrambled eggs a half side of the pot…
…and now I could add the creme fraiche and return it to the heat for a few seconds longer to incorporate the creme fraiche. I pulled it off the stove and seasoned it with 2 three fingered pinches of salt and 1 three fingered pinchs of black pepper.
While I was cooking the eggs, I had the toasted going with 4 slices of sourdough toast. To plate, I pulled out the toast (2 slices/plate), covered each plate with a nice slice of of black forest ham and distributed the scrambled eggs atop the ham.
It was a nice way to start the day….I bet my folks will surprised when I make it for them one morning!